Food was not the primary focus of our trip to Russia but it was the unexpected star. We ate phenomenal fresh and marinated fish, wonderful mushroom dishes celebrating autumn and some of the most delicious desserts I have eaten anywhere.  Read on for the highlights and a list of restaurants where you can sample these delights.

Moscow

We had barely checked into our hotel when it was time for lunch at Savva in the historical Metropol Hotel (where Amor Towles’ novel A Gentleman in Moscow takes place — a great read). 

What would a trip to Russia be without borscht? I tried it every chance I had and found it the perfect antidote to the unseasonably cold weather. Strelka Bar is an excellent place to enjoy a meal and watch the world go by on the Moscow River.

One woman’s dessert is another’s breakfast! These amazing pancakes – Sirniki – are made with fresh farmers’ cheese and graced my place every morning.

We visited one market, where we were able to sample the freshest farmers’ cheese.

I balanced Sirniki for breakfast with healthy (and divine) herring at least once a day. Vogue Café in the heart of Moscow’s pedestrian shopping district was a favorite lunch spot.

St. Petersburg

After a chilly morning exploring the palaces and parks in Tsarkoe Selo, we retreated to the Admiralty restaurant where we savored a sauté of fresh chanterelles and potatoes in the 250 year-old former boat house.

Vodka is not my drink of choice but the Russian Vodka Room No. 1 (featured photo at top) was worth the visit. I feasted on pelmeni (traditional dumplings) with sour cream and finished with an assortment of ice creams in most unusual flavors.

You can’t make these flavors up: (top to bottom above: Sea Buckthorn, Rye Bread and Honey, Porcini Mushroom, and Linseed and Birch Sap ice cream. Glad I sampled them, but I won’t be trying them at home.

We devoted one evening to caviar, including instruction on which accompaniments go with each type and how to properly savor roe (aka fish eggs).

Given my sweet tooth, it’s only fitting that this post ends with the single best dessert I ate in Russia: Medovik or Russian honey cake.  There are many variations, but of those I tried, the one at the Four Seasons Lion Palace tea room in St. Petersburg takes the cake!

Bon Appétit, or as they say in Russian: давайте есть!