Puglia’s pristine coastline invites comparison to the Amalfi Coast. There are the same winding roads and stunning views, but none of the congestion. As in the interior, there are charming villages, with Otranto at the top of my list. The exquisite Church of the Madonna of Altomare sits above the bay overlooking Otranto. While every town has its places of worship, this one stands apart with … Continue reading By the Sea, By the Sea – Puglia Part 2
Compared to just about everywhere else in Italy, Puglia is relatively quiet, especially come September 1, when the Italian families who spend August there have returned to work and school. This may be the best time to enjoy the spectacular wine, bountiful produce and seafood. Inland Puglia features traffic-free country roads lined with trulli, fields of sheep, and endless groves of olive trees. There is nothing quite like just pressed olive … Continue reading Trulli, Madly, Deeply – Puglia Part I
There’s a reason Norwegians dominate nordic events in the Winter Olympics: they roller ski to places the rest of us access by train or car. Our last day in Oslo, we decided to venture a field to Holmenkollen, home to a 60 meter ski jump, the world’s oldest ski museum and some great hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter. During our visit, we saw many … Continue reading Outside Oslo
Exploring Oslo by bike is a great way to see the city. From the Akershus Fortress, stopping at Snøhetta Architects’ fabulous Opera House (and be sure to take a walk on the roof), then through the heart of the city to Vigeland Park and the beautiful residential neighborhoods that adjoin it, there are well marked bike paths and friendly locals to help out if necessary. I can … Continue reading Awesome Oslo – part 2
While walking back down local’s favorite Old Pass road one early evening, I came around a bend in the road to find this mamma moose and her calf. Fortunately, I did NOT come between them AND thought to capture the moment on my phone! NB always better to walk in pairs and with bear spray especially at the end of the day. Continue reading A Walk on the Wild-ish Side in Jackson Hole
Oslo exudes a modern esthetic all its own. While it may not have the charm of its Scandinavian counterparts Stockholm and Copenhagen, the Norwegian capital is firmly committed to the 21st century with stunning architecture and a vast underground highway network that makes it a pedestrian friendly city. Aker Brygge is a relatively new neighborhood that is home to numerous restaurants, art galleries and trendy shops. … Continue reading Awesome Oslo – part 1
Fika is the Swedish term for taking a break to enjoy coffee with a pastry and is a custom I quickly adopted. Kardemummabullar and kanelbullar (cardamon and cinnamon rolls) are the perfect accompaniment to fresh brewed coffee any time of day! Two favorite spots are Mellqvist Kaffebar in Södermalm (favorite of Mikael Blomqvist as well as his creator Stieg Larsson) and Snickarbacken 7 in central Stockholm. The … Continue reading Fika-licious
If good things come in small packages, then summer in Stockholm definitely qualifies. Even before the autumnal equinox, leaves are turning and mornings are cool. Nonetheless, September may be the best time to visit as the cruise ships have departed and the crowds have thinned. Central Stockholm spreads across 14 islands whose bridges provide magnificent vistas of old world buildings and busy waterways. There are a … Continue reading Short and Sweet – Summer in Stockholm
Most every advertisement I see for Myanmar features the stunning temple complex in Bagan and there is good reason! Over two thousand temples and stupas (also known) remain of an estimated 10,000 that were constructed when Bagan was the capital of Myanmar, between the 9th and 13th centuries. There are lacquerware workshops and a museum to visit in Bagan. It is fascinating to see the artisans at work and many places will … Continue reading Bagan – the Best for Last
Mandalay may be the most recognized place in Myanmar, thanks to Rudyard Kipling, Amitav Ghosh and others, however much of its former charm has been destroyed and I would not recommend spending too much time there. (In fact, if you have constraints, cross it off your list.) That being said, the people are as lovely as elsewhere, there is a phenomenal Buddhist monastery/university and it … Continue reading Mingalaba Myanmar – Part II – Mandalay and Rolling on the River
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